INSIDE KNOWLEDGE- Nine Kick-ass workouts for the gymfrom Climbing Magazine no.178 p.140-p.144 Aug.1998 by Mark Eller
Practice is divided into three parts: strength, endurance, and skill. Most of the moderate climbers will find the best way to progress: good movements, proper posture, clever foot movements and advancement of movements. Skill training improves the skills of these basic skills. At the same time, all climbers can gain strength and endurance from the training table.
In terms of strength
1. Frontal confrontation:
If you have been climbing in an artificial rock for more than a few weeks, you have probably learned to use the outer edge of rock shoes to twist the buttocks and shoulders and bring them close to the rock face. If not, you can find someone who will demonstrate to you what a "back-knee" is. Because this posture allows your hips to cling to the rock face, on the sloped terrain, it helps you to resist gravity and catch farther points. However, in the "frontal confrontation" training method, the strength of the arm lock-off is mainly used, so no back-step is allowed. Use only the inner edge of your rock shoe to climb the rock formation. Mark not to use back-step. This will strengthen the power of your arm's lock-off. Don't worry about whether you can climb the route, focus on catching further points and grab a little before you reach a maximum pause. When you climb a route using this method, use a more relaxed back-step method to climb again, focusing on good techniques and acting as a body movement.
2. Speed ​​climbing:
Explosive power is very helpful to a rock climber with endurance. This training method will increase the dynamic power of your muscles, but it must begin with more difficult movements. Try a route that is two levels below your limit (if you'd better climb 5.10 for 5.10), climb at normal speed and find someone to help you clock. After five minutes of rest, climb it again and complete it in half the time. Pretend to imagine that you are the masters of those World Cup speed races, constantly rising, hands dyno, doing anything and everything that can help you complete the course in half the time.
Sounds a little unreasonable? True, most rock climbers are not willing to push their speed forward at least when they begin this training. The point is that you do these dynamic, outburst actions with the whole body instead of only the arms, and keep it until the summit or route ends. This is an action that requires sufficient input, precision, and effective use of physical activity. All of these skills are helpful in your climbing path. The mentality here is very important, and you must be willing to see yourself as a powerful climber in order to make you a powerful rock climber. By choosing some points that are large enough to make your point-to-point dyno easy, you can ensure that you can successfully complete the route as soon as you start. Then start experimenting with more distant movements and smaller handle points. Ideally, each dyno must slide smoothly to the next point. However, if you run out of power, stop before doing the next action so that the arm doesn't "hard". To happily "play" this training, fall more than a few times. When you first start, you are probably just beginning to develop instincts that can break through the fatal difficulties that always bother you.
3. Touch me and touch me:
Everyone has heard people say that bouldering can help build explosive power, but many moderate climbers rarely have time to complete the activity. This training method can be used for beginners and climbers who have no way to climb the ceiling to enhance their bouldering fun. This method requires two people to work together, but the degree of rock climbing does not have to be the same.
In the beginning, don’t care about the patterns of any routes. Our goal is only to increase your own explosive power. Find more than one bouldering wall, with an angle of inclination and handle points for each climber: The big handles need to be easy to grasp, while the small handle points are not quite needed, the more points on the rock face The better. From the big hands to climbing, climb a simple bouldering route with four to eight movements. When you both alternately climb over, start to replace the harder handle points to increase the difficulty of the route until both are in the first and second steps. Falling. The trick now is to let your partner push your back on your back or waist and push just enough power to get you on course. Then gradually reduce the power of push. The result should be that a difficult bouldering route can push you to your limits. If you do not care about other people's touch and your partner will be your meat pad, then this method will make you a bubbling enthusiast.
Endurance
4. Sweat like rain:
This training method will produce energy similar to endorphins that is higher than your running or riding a bike. The rock wall suitable for this training is a light to medium hanging rock and has a wide climbing space. Start from a difficult route, even if it's hard to climb up. Climb to you and then quickly go down and climb another simpler route. Don't rush when you are climbing. Pay attention to the use of skills. Try to climb the soft spots. Do not affect the softness of climbing because of tiredness and hard arms. Gradually descending tiers Three to five consecutive routes are an appropriate training group. Take a break between each training session and double the time you spent climbing (if you had just climbed five minutes and rested for ten minutes). This training should not be overdone. Two or three training groups are sufficient for all climbers who are not going to the World Cup.
5. Accumulation of lactic acid:
To a bouldering area with a cliff, foot a good point, try to grasp the height and grab the handle point on the hanging rock, feel the arm has a good stretch. Keep the arm's extension and height open so that the arms are crossed so that they do not shake out. You can find a companion to guide you not to catch a good handle, keep your hands hard, keep changing hands and grab points that are harder to grasp than normal, and try to climb 60 moves or 90 seconds in a row.
In this climbing, when the hand continues to hold high, it is difficult for the fresh oxygenated blood to reach the muscles of the hand, and in this anaerobic state, lactic acid formation begins to accumulate. Every time when you train your muscles to make movements in the presence of lactic acid, this painful training is good for rock climbers who want to overcome their hands. This training is also highly loaded. Do not do more than twice a week.
Technical aspects
6. Feet high:
Everyone is always begging you to use your feet more than your hands when climbing. This training method can help you achieve this noble ideal.
On a vertical or sloping rock wall, try to keep your hands above the height of your head while climbing. So you will not be able to pull you up by hand. This training method will allow you to learn better and more accurate foot steps, subtle balance movements of the hips, use of strategies, high-steps and stem techniques. Remember that when you rock climbing in a natural rock field, you will no longer doubt why you spend so much time practicing on a ridiculous artificial rock, and you will want to spend more time practicing on the little handle. skill.
7. Touch powder:
Most moderate climbers wear pink belts, but only a few people use them. Being able to brush on the rock not only makes you better grasp the handle points, but also helps you to make a more effortless rest posture and allows you time to recover.
Use this strategy well and exaggerate it (sometimes I encourage beginners to do it every other time with their hands.) All these movements that allow you to reach out and touch the powder, stop your continued climbing, make you straighten your hands and get a good rest, and make you look for better footwork like heel hooks or knee-bars And other tricks that are easy for you. When you touch the powder, relax your muscles and take a deep breath to speed up your recovery. Not only will this training make you a powder addict, too much will cause you not to be fluent when you are climbing difficult routes. When you have become accustomed to powdering, you must begin to reduce the number of times you actually need it.
8. Quiet feet:
Close your eyes and listen carefully to a master rock climber. You will not hear the sound of his feet colliding with the rock wall as he steps or climbs. If you want to hear this sound, it's obvious when you listen to a beginner rock climbing. To make your feet to use more accurately and concentrate, to listen to the sound of your feet when climbing, to challenge the quiet.
9. Predict climbing:
The action of trying to figure out the route in advance on the ground, often referred to as the "reading" route, is a very useful technique. Correctly figure out your actions in advance so that you can effectively use breaks, control your rhythm, and plan strategies for overcoming difficulties. To learn the course of "reading," try to describe to your partner how you want to climb and describe something clear. Once you begin to crawl, you must strictly limit your ability to climb in accordance with what you predicted.
This helps your on-sight ability. After carefully observing the characteristics of each point and the rock wall, write down your predicted actions. Whenever you climb one step, ask your partner to predict what you originally expected. Read it and see how accurate your predictions are. Even veterans of the World Cup will find it difficult; they also need to keep practicing. This technique is not only used in artificial rock fields, but it works well everywhere.
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