shape
There are four basic shapes of iron locks:
O-shaped, D-shaped, variable D-shaped and HMS (also known as pear-shaped) iron locks.
The O-shape is the initial basic type of the iron lock. It is symmetrical about the shape of the lock and has no acute corners.
Many uses: When using the ascender, descender, self-climber or pulley, it is necessary to use O-shaped iron lock. Because it keeps the equipment vertical, it does not fall left or right; it can also carry more equipment, such as wall nuts or anchor piles, ice piles, etc., and it is more convenient to pick it up.
Low price: O-shaped iron locks of the same brand are cheaper than other shaped iron locks.
Medium strength: Due to the shape, the long axis of the O-shaped iron lock (which is an imaginary axis and the two points farthest from the iron lock) is equalized on both sides, so the load on the opening part will be better than other shapes. The iron lock is large, causing its overall strength to be poor. Therefore, O-shaped iron locks are rarely used to directly apply force.
The design of the D-shaped iron lock can absorb more load from the side with the highest strength (the side without the opening) and improve the defect of insufficient strength of the O-shaped iron lock. The same size D-shaped iron lock is lighter than the O-shaped and is also easier to hang into the rope or fixing point.
Change the D-shaped iron lock, as its name implies, is the 'special shape' of the D-shaped iron lock. One end is wide and the other end is narrow. The whole shape is a bit like a deformed pear. This design makes it lighter than the D-shaped iron lock and has greater strength. Plus its opening is larger than the D-shape, making it easier to hunt or hang out, and quickly know which side the opening is. Therefore, there is a tendency to change the D-shaped iron lock beyond the D shape.
HMS (Pear-shaped iron lock) is an enlargement, one end is much larger than the other, pear-shaped iron lock. Because it is often used together with the 8 word loops to ensure or reduce the use of equipment, most of them have a lockable design to prevent accidental opening of the iron lock. It can also cooperate with Italy to make a rappelling and secure use.
Iron lock anti-unlock
The equivalent of iron latches can be roughly divided into four types:
Anti-unlocking is the most common, most common, and most durable and trustworthy type. It can be used in almost any situation (without using a lock).
The anti-lock bolt is specially designed for lanyards. Its shape makes it easier for the fingers to catch the iron lock. The strength and weight are similar to those of the former, but if used improperly, the anti-unlocking iron lock will easily open on its own, so use it with special care.
It must not be hung directly into bolts, friends, wall nuts, or anchors. Straight off the latch can buy more, right amount can be bent.
Locking anti-lock latches are available from O-shape to HMS. Dangle, secure, or hold the first anchor point. Whenever you need to rely on an iron lock to protect yourself or someone else's safety; to avoid accidentally opened the iron lock, you should use it. The design of the lock, from the simplest spiral lock to the complex multiple automatic spring locks. The spiral has a simple design but it has excellent performance. Even if the spiral part is stained with dirt or crushed ice, it can still be basically used. As long as you remember to lock it!
The disadvantage is that when it is loaded on the lock, or when it is locked too tight, it is almost impossible to open it with a vise.
Automatic spring locks are designed differently. The same thing, as long as you let go it will lock, do not worry about forgetting.
Although it is convenient, if the part of the lock is drilled by dirt or broken ice, it may be 'frozen', so it is not suitable for upstream or ice climbing.
No matter which one you use, no one can guarantee 100% security. The most important thing is to rely on your own 'double check, double check, double check'.
Wire pull-off prevention is a recent design that replaces traditional aluminum alloy columns with a ring of stainless steel wire. There is no spring in the hub, less extra weight, and more space for the rope to accommodate the opening. Although the thin wire seems rather worrying, in fact its strength is no worse than that of a conventional anti-lockout lever, and in the case of a lanyard, it is combined with the anti-unlock bolt (you can use two such locks) Do quickdraw). Better still, it is not easily shaken off by the shock of falling. However, because it is a new product, there are not many people currently using it.
Iron lock purchase notes
Know that there are many types of iron locks, but also face the wall of the iron lock: Some are on the special price, some are sky-high, some colorful, some clear and white, some complete sale, there are strange things ... how to start ?
In general, unless you intend to specialize in a specific rock climbing activity, it is better to buy several types of iron locks according to the actual needs. For example, climb climb climb climbing route, need more bending (or steel wire) anti-lock bolt lock; climbing, upstream, ice climbing requires light weight, high strength, not easy to affect the operation due to freezing or running into debris Iron locks; secure, rappelling, fixed points above the top-rope, lock iron locks, etc. must be used.
The following are the areas that should be carefully checked when purchasing:
strength
According to the standards set by UIAA, the strength of the long axis of the iron lock cannot be less than 2000 kg when it is closed; it cannot be less than 600 kg when it is opened; the strength of the short axis can not be less than 400 kg. The test method is: the two ends of the iron lock long axis with a 12 cm steel bolt fixed at a certain speed in the opposite direction until the iron lock fracture.
However, this is not the same as the actual rock climbing situation: When the iron lock receives about 500 pounds (227 kilograms) of force, it will begin to stretch (this force varies slightly depending on the shape of the iron lock). The direction of the extension is the point at which the latches and the locks of the iron locks coincide with each other. They will engage with each other and the lock cannot be opened. As the power increases, the extension continues and the bite is more tight. When the force exceeds the limit of the iron lock, it will break from the bite point.
The iron lock is only normal if it is closed and forces along the long axis. Although 99.9% of the time, the iron lock is a normal force, but we can't ignore the 0.1% exception. Therefore, in addition to paying attention to the strength of the iron lock in the normal state, it is also necessary to pay attention to its strength when it is opened and the short shaft (unlocking part).
Additional Note: In Europe, the tested iron locks will be marked with UIAA. However, as more and more manufacturers adopt more recent EN standards (most of the provisions are similar or consistent with UIAA), if you do not see UIAA, only EN If you do, don't worry about it. As for the United States because there is no minimum strength limit, iron locks do not necessarily have any identification, so remember to check it. However, the iron locks of the more well-known manufacturers (for example: Black iamond, Blue Water, HB, MSR, etc.) are all standard.
weight
Iron locks can be divided into three categories according to weight: standard weight (55 grams or more), lightweight (55 to 40 grams) and ultra-lightweight (40 grams or less).
The climber chooses an ultra-lightweight iron lock because he has 'gg' for the weight of the equipment. This type of iron lock is relatively thin, and its strength is also small. The weight is about 50% to 70% of that of the standard type. The disadvantage is that it is expensive, and because the bending degree of the two ends of the iron lock is large, the contact area between the inside and the rope or other equipment is small. Easy to grind rope or bolt, anchor piles and other fixed points, its life is relatively short. For the average climber, the slight difference in weight does not have a significant effect. Therefore, it is important to choose a stronger one than a lighter one. (unless it is for competition)
Feel
Hold the iron lock in your hand to see if it allows you to 'hold it in one's hand'; if it has a lock iron lock, if it can be operated with one hand; also remember to check whether the anti-latch switch is smooth and do not use it 'astringent Astringent', as well as hanging in? Hanging out of the action is not difficult.
"pin and notch" or "key lock"?
There are two designs for the part of the anti-latch and iron lock opening. The most common is 'pin and notch', which has a notch at the opening of the iron lock and a pin-like thing at the anti-unlocking part, which two parts engage with each other.
The other is the 'key lock' design. There is no groove in the opening so that it will not hook the rope, sling, or pinch the fingers like the former. There is no pin in the anti-latch, it is a deep groove and iron lock. This kind of iron lock has many advantages and is also very useful, but the price is high, and if the groove of the anti-latch is run into a layer of dirt or crushed ice, it will not be completely closed.
Use iron lock precautions:
1. Don't use borrowed or awkward iron locks. Try not to lend your own iron locks unless you're climbing together.
2. Check the direction in which quicklock is used for the lanyard's iron lock opening. In general, it should face downwards; if the route needs to cross to the left, it should face right; when crossing to the right, it should turn left. If it is not in the right direction, the rope can easily fall out of the iron lock when it falls.
3. The lanyard must be correct, do not hang the wrong rope. Beginners should practice lanyards before actually climbing. (One-handed!)
4. Do not force the iron lock to open. The following conditions will cause it to be opened. Special attention should be paid to avoiding: the iron lock slams into the rock; the bolt from the protruding latch is pushed against it; the vibration caused by the violent fall causes the iron lock to be opened temporarily (call it For the gate lash), this will reduce the iron lock strength.
5. If the iron lock is covered with dirt, crushed ice or other debris, it will not be completely closed, affecting operation and safety.
6. Make sure that your locked iron lock can also be opened when it is under weight, which is important when ensuring and artificial climbing (use ascenders, climbers, etc.).
Iron lock maintenance:
1. Check after each use: whether the surface has rough cracks or sharp corners.
2. Dust must be clean.
3. Check for any deformation or missing parts in the hinge section. If it is used for a long time, I feel that the switch is not smooth. Clean the iron lock first and apply lubricant (such as WD40) to the hinge. Then switch it several times. Remember to wipe off excess lubricant.
4. If the lock has fallen from a height of 6 meters, stop using it. Because the appearance is not scarred, the interior may have been seriously damaged.
5. Iron locks should avoid contact with corrosive substances or acids (eg car batteries).
6. Salt also has an erosion effect on the iron lock. If you often go to Longdong, remember to clean the iron lock regularly (use a damp cloth).
7. Pay attention to sharp or uneven parts on other equipment. They will scratch the iron lock.
8. Iron locks should be stored in a dry and ventilated place. Do not wrap them with wet ropes, slings and slings.
Never use a guillotine knife to lock the iron to a rough place. If you want to polish it, use 220 to 400 grades of sandpaper. If it is not enough, this iron lock should not be used again.
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